Team – Jim Thompson & Chris Hibberts
After dragging staples to the start of French Connection over 2 months ago and 1 subsequent trip that was unfruitful, optimism was high that the sump had dried up enough to allow us entry to start the job of stapling a route up Madame Guillotine.
The dragging of Drills and SRT Kits cemented the need to put staples in to avoid the pain in the proverbial getting through Taylors way and Snakes Pyjamas. After reaching the spot just before FC, where we’d left the staples, Jim decide it was my turn to see if the sump was passable. I passed the first small pool of water and down to the second and could see about 6” of space through so continued. Jim kindly agreed I didn’t need to return, and he would haul the 3 tackle bags through with him. Much puffing, panting and cursing later Jim was through and passed the bags up through the scaff section into the bottom of MG.
After 5 Minutes of deliberation, we decided to start up the scree slope to the right of the main route to give us the most height and thus reduce the number of staples required. This would involve a short 3m climb up followed by a 4m traverse left to the bottom of the route that would hopefully then continue straight up.
The first staple went in to give a foot hold to allow a step up onto a ledge this also needed a further 2 staples to give hand holds to assist. Once onto the ledge a spot of gardening was required to clear a way for the traverse left. Jim stuck one more staple in high up to give a hand hold to get onto the freshly cleared ledge.
First four staples to reach the Traverse - By Chris H
With no Safety line in place and now around 8m up from the bottom of the slope I decided to get onto the in-situ rope that was rigged to get up the pitch. Level with the ledge, a spot of swinging back and forth allowed the clipping of a long cows tail, plus the tether from the drill, into the last staple giving a better position to add a further staple as a hand hold to get to the start of what will now be the route up.
One more staple was added as a foot hold but at this point the battery had started to die, and Jim was starting to feel the cold, it was 9:15 and thoughts of making The Anchor were now prevailing. We packed up the drill and SRT kits and head out to reach the surface around 10:30. Our best efforts to make the anchor were unsuccessful and a beer in the back of Jim’s van was the next best thing.
We’ll return next week with the challenge of reaching the top. The in-situ rope is now starting to pull us away from the wall and will need to be replaced with one straight down the wall to give better positioning.
