Cussey Pot
During Lockdown 2020 a new hole was spotted to draught bigger and stronger than any cave in the Peak. We dug it open and this is what happened....
Full description of the trip can be viewed here.
The current survey can be downloaded from here.
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- Written by: Joe Buck
- Hits: 1392
Present: Dream Team (Rob and Joe)
Following some significant rainfall in the preceding days, and with winter clearly well on its way, Rob and I formed a plan in the damp, gloomy car park. Jon and Sam had decided to take a trip down Cliffstile to have a look at some fairly aquatic unexplored mine workings, so Rob and I decided we would try to make the most of the access through Boil-up Sump 2 while we still could. We had a couple of choke leads to investigate and Rob realised our diving comrades had marked on their survey an aven near the downstream sump, which we hadn’t noticed previously. Due to the recent rainfall, as a back-up plan in case Sump 2 was, well, sumped, we took in survey gear to tie in the passage beyond the Vulgarious junction and the Inclined Cavern.
With only one small bag to carry, we made quick progress and were soon climbing down the bendy ladder into the old mine workings of the Wet West, apprehensive to see what effect the weather had had on the conditions below. This was soon answered as there was indeed a reasonable flow heading down the pitch off to one side - this was probably not a good indicator. We continued the rest of the approach to RAT, which was drippier, but definitely not too unpleasant. (If anything, the drips provided some fresh water to clean the grit out of your eyes!)
We rounded the corner and both sat next to the sump like gargoyles staring at it to assess the water level. It was definitely a lot higher than previously, which meant we had no access to the first air bell and so immediately extended the dive by another few metres. How much the rise would have extended it on the other side, we couldn’t only speculate… There is a small gap above the sump through which we’d previously been able to (just about) make a voice connection with the big air bell. Rob noticed this was still draughting into the SMMC, and confidently stated that this was good news, as it meant the low passage beyond the air bell still had air space.
I was apprehensive but very comforted by this. I had previously been trialling how far I could dive through the sump whilst the water was low and reasonably low consequence, and knew that the air bell would be there to come up in regardless of the conditions. Rob looked at me like he was expecting me to get on with it, so I slipped into the water, took a couple of deep breaths and plunged in. Knowing this was going to be a longer dive, I decided it would be better to be efficient with my breath and remain calm, moving slowly through the passage without thrashing. Gliding along, hand over hand on the rope, I reached a point where, if I’m honest, I’d expected to surface. With my helmet still crashing along the roof, the bolt the rope was tied to just didn’t appear. I’m picking up the pace now, starting to think that breath efficiency was a stupid idea - I’ve done the equivalent of a sprint by crawling, and without any air. Mercifully, the rope rose out of the water and I emerged into the safe haven of the air bell. Three tugs on the rope to indicate it was safe for Rob to come through, and we were reunited.
The passage beyond, which has until recently been a waist-deep wade with a couple of feet of air space, now had as little as 10cm above the water. Rob warned me to take it slowly, as we had to go through backwards with our lips pressed to the ceiling and no way to see where we were headed. I immediately veered off to one side and fortunately had Rob to direct me through. He had little to worry about in this regard, and navigated his way through the scalloped roof without any trouble.
Buzzing from our exciting entry, we skipped off down Winking Passage to go and have a poke at the potential leads. The first on the list was just to the right after appearing from the t-junction, and was a choke heading upwards and back towards where we’d come from. I had a quick look first and wasn’t immediately enthused by the wall of stones glued together by mud. I stepped out of the way to let Rob make a more informed assessment, to which he concluded there was an interesting tube off to the right, but not hugely inspiring digging conditions. Rob had left his aiders further up the streamway on a previous trip, so we took a quick jaunt to go and collect them and warm up a little. We both agreed it was amazing to see the passage properly flowing after the dry summer - an actual streamway again!
Next, we headed back downstream to check out the aven, stopping occasionally to feel for a draught in the smaller sections of passage. We stopped for a while in the chamber before the vadose passage heading off at head height to discuss rocks ’n stuff, concluding primarily that we didn’t know why it had formed the way it had. As Rob set off in front of me towards the downstream sump he noticed how foggy the air was, until suddenly it cleared, showing the draught was obviously pulling inwards. Arriving at the spot where it had been marked on the survey, we looked up to see an obvious slot in the roof which I had never noticed before despite having sat underneath it on previous trips. Rob had a quick go at free climbing in to it by standing on my knee but quickly decided I should just stand on his shoulders instead. Not sure who was getting the worst deal I bridged across, stood on Rob’s shoulder and hauled myself into the gap. The draught heading upwards was clear, and despite looking small, it looked possible to fit. The complete lack of handholds, coupled with being the wrong side of a fairly committing freedive, meant a decision to return with bolting gear was made, and I slid back down landing with a thump.
We began to head out, stopping only to check another choke on a corner along Winking Passage. Rob poked his head in and concluded that, whilst not dead, it would make for pretty grim digging with boulders above your head. He stopped to fashion a belt from a sling so he could take his aiders through the sump, and then we crawled back into the water. Rob navigated his way back through the deep water towards the air bell and I followed shortly after. The water was now so deep that I had to walk backwards on my toes to keep my face out of the water and, with my ears underwater, I couldn’t hear the directions Rob was giving me. Apparently I was starting to drift off to one side and, coupled with my unsteady footing, I dunked my head under. I tried to resurface but couldn’t seem to find the small air space at the top of the passage - every time I tried I just came up against rock. In a bit of panicked underwater aerobics, I spun round and swam back from where we’d came to find a bigger airspace. Feeling a bit shaken, I carefully tip-toed back along, this time listening more carefully for Rob’s instructions. Unfortunately, Rob had a bit of a left and right mix up, and so I very nearly veered off to the same fate once again but luckily managed to get back on course. We had a bit of a nervous chuckle about the mix up, but it hadn’t served well to settle our nerves before heading through what we now knew to be a very, very long dive. I stepped up first and wasn’t going to hang around this time - I found it much better at speed, but probably not one for every week. I lay on the bank catching my breath and could hear the water gurgling as Rob made his way through. I couldn’t believe how long it actually took for him to resurface.
Pleased to be on the right side of the sump once again, we couldn’t help but laugh. Rob joked that it was inevitable we were going to have some sort of adventure when it’s just us. We made good pace back out and were relieved to be back washing gear in the now-flowing salt pan by 9:30 and headed to the Mechanics shortly after for beer and free scampi bites - what a winner. We stayed for a few, and had hoped to hear from Jon and Sam as to how they’d gotten on, but still no word. Given they’d just gone for a bit of an explore, it was getting pretty late. Rob received a text later on that they were out. They’d taken some photos which we hadn’t factored into our estimations, and seemingly they hadn’t either as they nearly run out of light on the trip.
After the trip, a quick look at the dive survey through the sump puts our free dive at somewhere close to 10m…
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- Written by: Fabian Ehlers
- Hits: 1242
Trip Name: “I’m cold”, “What just happened” and “OMG! I am in the SMMC!!!”
Trip Members: Rob E., Rob M., Jon P., Sam P., Chris H. and Fabian E.
Today is the day I was planning to enter the SMMC. I’ve been putting it off for too long to get through Vulgarious and my shift work also hasn’t helped.
We met as usual enjoying a couple of cold refreshing beers whilst kitting up ready for the trip. Jim who visited with his son for some SRT training in the entrance pitch also brought some lovely Mince Pies which went down a treat.
Knowing that the trip now includes a free dive just before you enter the SMMC I opted to purchase a cheap neoprene suit to make things a little warmer. A trick I learned from the “regulars”.
To test my knowledge of the route I entered the first pitch first and started descending. After only 5m I opted to take the wrong turn but realising the mistake retraced my steps and entered the correct passage, from then on route finding was easier and we found ourselves in the Inglorious Bastards chamber very soon. SRT kit dumped I noticed that my wet suit already had taken a huge battering… oh well it was only cheap. As long as I don’t end up completing the trip in my underwear I don’t care.
Rob E. and Rob M. followed close behind and I started heading down towards Loperamide Lust which I remember being quite tight, but it seriously has been widened by the repeated passing of trip members. In a wet suit it was a little hard work as it is clay like mud which does make moving forward difficult. Within a few minutes I found myself at the beginning of Vulgarious Bastard which I remembered from my first ever digging trip into this system. Think of it as a phreatic tube filled with what your toilet would expect after a good curry. Sloppy, gloopy mud with some harder bits. Progress is rather easy as every time you dig your fingers into the mud and pull yourself forward you slide another 1.5m, we passed For Buck’s Sake followed by a lovely duck into the next section before reaching Vulgarious Rift. After the last section I found myself in Race Against Time and could’ve kicked myself in the arse… This was honestly not as bad as I imagined, and I was cross that I’ve put it off for so long.
Rob E. exited the breakthrough point shortly after me and suggested that I’d explore towards the Boil Up Sump 1 to experience the strange geology that is RAT. Now it is big (but there is bigger stuff to come), RAT is very strange, a very interesting type of streamway and geology. The streamway just draws you in, around every bend, every corner do you see something you want to look at and before you know you can hear Rob shouting you from behind to return as they are ready for the dive.
After a quick jog back, I reached the guys at the entrance to the free dive. Unfortunately, Jon P. noticed that his Scurion lamp developed a leak, and he was not keen to perform the free dive knowing he’d knacker his lamp up so decided with Sam P. and Chris H. to take some pictures in a nearby chamber.
After a quick instruction from the two Robs on how to safely navigate the free dive I observed Rob E. take the first dive and I followed behind. Next me… enter the water, get into the air bell. Dive line in right hand, deep breath, duck and pull yourself through ensuring your head is tilted towards your chest. As soon as you started to think “Why the hell am I doing this?” you exit the dive and are met with a cheering Rob on the other side… your next emotions are a mixture of: “I’m cold”, “What just happened” and “OMG! I am in the SMMC!!!”.
Now I already mentioned RAT and how the geology is very weird, the SMMC is very similar but on steroids. Boulders the size of cars, passages large enough to make you wonder what amount of force and effort it has taken to create these.
Rob M. pointed out some unique features especially one where you can see a van sized boulder having scratched the adjoining walls as it must have moved down.
Joe Buck in SMMC, by Rob Eavis
We bypassed Upstream Sump 1 which seemed blocked by a silt plug but with their new oxbow passage involving a very tight letterbox it is now very manageable.
Once we reached Upstream Sump 2 the two Robs started immediately to get on with their task. Rob M. kitted up to start the dive and Rob E. fitted the first bolt and entered the air bell via a dry passage to fit the second bolt, all to install a new free dive line.
Rob M. entered the water with diving gear on and somehow completely bypassed Rob in the air bell and exited the Sump on the other side… Very shortly after I saw the lights of his helmet coming my direction and he exited the sump just at my feet. After a quick reorientation he managed to find the air bell and the free dive line was rigged. Rob E. then returned and kitted up for the dive whilst Rob M. returned from the dive and said that because water levels are so low it could be done as a free dive. He turned to me and asked if I’d like to come through as well using his kit and he would free dive it.
Now that’s an offer I could not turn down and followed Robs instruction on how to mount the little cylinder onto my chest and check the equipment.
Rob E. went off first and I received the three tugs on the dive line and it was time for me to go. Now I am accustomed to swimming pool for my SCUBA lessons, but this is cold water, with visibility like sewage and certainly not as spacious to move through. One duck and I already was in the air bell… this wasn’t bad! Next duck and I pulled myself along the free dive line through the submerged phreatic tube banging my head repeatedly on the roof despite me trying to keep it tucked against my chest. As I broke the water surface in the next chamber Rob was cheering again. Now there was only one emotion: “THIS WAS AMAZING!” Rob M. followed shortly behind free diving the whole section and he seemed very pleased with himself knowing that this sump is now suitable as a free dive as well.
We left behind our cylinders and explored the last few sections and ended in T’Old Man’s Birthday which is where the SMMC terminates at present. This boulder choke seems off putting but it has the feel that this is not the end, there must be more to it. It certainly is something to return to.
Now it was time to return, I dived the section first followed by both Robs. I mistakenly offered to assist with carrying the cylinders back to surface. We made some very good progress through the SMMC towards the free dive. Now once you’ve done it you start to like it as it’s a lot of fun.
Vulgarious and Loper’s on the return are exhausting, after the amount of cave we’ve experienced dragging the tackle bags back towards Inglorious isn’t fun. Rob E. took the two cylinders and ascended the pitch, I followed and the last I saw of him was just around Pearly Gates and he was off. Rob M. and myself followed behind but I think I slowed us down quite a bit as the sections just before Coconut Aven are very technical and require good knowledge as to where to place your feet. After a lot of huffing and puffing and the occasional relieving curse word to express your dislike of the situation we exited the entrance pitch and shut the lid! What an amazing trip this was!
This place always surprises me, these guys have been at it for so long, they broke through into the SMMC. It feels like there is nothing left to explore but the list still isn’t completed so there is more to explore.
Off to bed with a couple of Co-codamol, deep heat and sort the kit out the next day.
Fabian
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- Written by: Ben S
- Hits: 1127
Trip members - Rob E, Ben S and Dylan
*straining noises* I am about to blow a hernia, why on earth are warmbac wetsuit ankles so difficult to get on? The sense of being close to bursting a blood vessel as I try to get my arms in is more than a little exciting. Thanks to the quite frankly ridiculous rise in cost of fuel I haven’t been able to join the team for a trip in what feels like forever. We smashed a pre cave donut and headed to the cussey lid. As we climbed up the very short steep mud bank, Rob; one of the most capable and elegant cavers I have ever met fell flat on his face. Rob had forgotten his wellies and was finding out quickly that his trail shoes were not as grippy, this is going to be fun. He opened the lid, it never ceases to amaze me the strength of the draught coming out of cussey.
Rob, Dylan and I made very quick work to the base of Inglorious where we stashed our SRT kit into Rob's bag and slid into loper lust. Last time I was in here it was a thick sticky gloop that wrestled you into the floor, but this time, thanks to the sustained dry weather we have had, it was bone dry and we passed through quickly.
*Boom* “oh shit” came the echo down the passage. The strap on robs bag had decided enough was enough and sent our kit down to the bottom of the ladder. “give me a minute” Rob said as he raced down. I looked over the edge to see his light at the bottom illuminating just how much of a bend this ladder has. Note to Jon (because he was washing his hair tonight) – this would make a great photo if you haven’t already.
This trip is a trip of two halves. Up until this point I find a wetsuit so so hot and uncomfortable, but from now onwards I love it so much and would not be without it. And so before I know it we are at the point of where I popped my cussey cherry, Vulgarious. The most hated section by the team. I however love it. I am literally a pig in shit at this point. Just accept the mud because you are not avoiding it anymore. We begin on our hands and knees up to elbows before dropping into a flat out crawl. This was wetter than I have see it before, head turned to the side and half in water I would reach forwards and gently pull so as not to cause too many waves, gliding through this section I catch up with Rob.
It is rumoured that Hobgoblin is the only thing he will drink, however I found where his true powers come from as he was drinking the magical stoney elixer from the small waterfall at the beginning of For Bucks Sake. This section is now like one of those airport travellators. Sloppy, but one push from the toes and you slide for a metre or so. Water levels at the breakthrough point were low and so passing through was easy. What follows is the deepest sludge ever and its hands and knees crawlling, so its quick draining work.
Shortly we make the sump. I had not done this sump before and my only experience of passing sumps is swildons sump 1 which is very short. Rob explained the procedure of getting through and signalling to the next person. It was very cool to watch his helmet disappear under the water line. Between 10 and 20 seconds later the rope pulled tight 3 times. That was my signal. “enjoy” said Dylan as I slipped into the water, dam its cold. I hate cold water with a passion. Gradually the wetsuit did its job and my temperature seemed to equalise. Its a strange feeling that follows. I know its safe, Rob has just got through, others have got through a number of times, and yet because I have no reference on what to expect, there is a moment of apprehension. I took a few small breaths, then one big one, pushed my head under and commited. Pulling on the rope my helmet hit the ceiling a couple of times and then before I know it I felt the bolt at the other end of the rope. Cue lots of whoops and cheers from both Rob and I. He is always genuinely excited and encouraging and it was a great experience. This sump really changes the nature of the trip again and makes it feel end more “proper”.
Ben diving through Sump 2, by Rob Eavis
“you could have popped up a lot sooner” rob laughed, I looked back to see that there was an airbell behind me. I gave Dylan 3 tugs (this trip was full of innuendos) and he came through with an equally massive grin.
Now, if you go left before the sump and head off down Race Against Time, it is incredible, but if you go through the sump into the master cave, it is even more incredible. The streamway is huge, and doenst close down like race against time, infact it gets bigger and bigger. There were boulders in there bigger than my van. The plan was for us to survey the new aven and for Dylan to have a go at the dig.
I have always wanted to have a go at surveying and so as Dylan prussicked up, Rob gave me a crash course in surveying with a distox. I went to the station and begun taking splays around the chamber. Next up I had to point the lazer upto Dylan. He spotted my next station and I fired off 3 identical points.
“you prussic up through a boulder choke to the rebelay and take the next splays from there” said rob as I set off up the rope. Approaching the sphincter, a small circular hole in the boulder choke, Dylan was swift to warn me not to pull on the small chockstone. I looked around. Now, maybe it is not intergral, however, this small chockstone appeared to be holding up a HUGE boulder, which I didn’t fancy sending down onto Rob. I did my best stick insect impression and passed through without dislodging anything.
Ben climbing up the top half of Sphincter Aven, by Rob E
Rob then joined. The next survey station was above the sphincter and beyond the rebelay. I clipped myself in and stepped across into the bolts to try and get on the point for the distox. Looking down into the hole was pure blackness. This is a distant remote place and I loved it. It was hard to maintain my position and to be still enough to take accurate readings. Weirdly there was no fear about hanging on cowstails and falling in to the sphincter, I was terrified however of dropping this stupidly expensive piece of equipment. splays done and we moved up again.
Ben Shannon surveying at the top of Sphincter Aven, by Rob E
There is a vertical squeeze to get into the final chamber that realisitcally is best done without SRT kit. We went through kitted up and for a moment I was stuck as my gear filled the space I needed. With some wiggling and patience I got through, but not without snagging my wetsuit on a sharp bit of rock.
Ben squeezing through into the top chamber, by Rob E
Dylan was chipping away with a bolting hammer in the corner. I took some final shots of the distox and then had a look around the small chamber. Eventually Dylan admitted defeat as his arms ran out of strength. Rob took the distox and it seems there is about 7m beyond the dig so that’s worth checking out. I peered in to have a look. Beyond the calcite bridge blocking the way on there was blackness. No draught but certainly worth a gander for completion sake.
Dropping back out of the squeeze I got stuck again as the distox box slid up and filled the gap. For a moment I couldn’t go forwards or backwards. I had hoped gravity would have helped me. Eventually I went back up into the chamber, removed some bits of kit and then dropped back through. We took some pictures above the sphincter and headed on back. Walking amongst these huge boulders feels like those places in a film where a T-rex would suddenly come back to life.
This time at the sump I was excited about passing through because I knew what to expect.
I took the slack out of the rope popped my head under and did slow long pulls on the rope. It felt very serene gliding through there this time.
Once back at Inglorious we kitted up. I always stay well clear of the bottom of the pitch as debris has been knocked off in the past. Dylan went up and eventually I heard the call “rope free” I left it a bit longer to ensure he was well away from the pitch. Clipping onto the rope I was about to ascend when I heard a loud noise from above, luckily at this point you are near a bit of an overhang. So I tried leaning into that and just braced. A big boulder hit the ground behind me with some smaller bits hitting my shoulder and back. I don’t mind admitting that the fear was very real. I still had to ascend. I started on up; halfway more bits started falling towards me. Bits of rock fist sized, thank goodness for my helmet is all I can say. Continuing on up there was a steady rain of small pebbles, my sphincter felt as stable as the one I passed through in the aven some time ago.
The rest of the way out was uneventful thankfully, we all washed off and then jumped into my van for post session beers / ciders and some more donuts.
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- Written by: Rob Eavis
- Hits: 1236
Team bolt: Rob and Dylan
Team photo & poke: Jon, Joe and Chris
Days of discussing potential objectives were finally condensed over pre-beers, based on who turned up. Nice to see Chris turn up again after us nearly breaking him last week. Seemingly yet another sucker for punishment getting engrained into the team.
Steady progress to Race Against Time; Loper Lust and Vulgarious really are getting bigger and easier with each trip through (although I wouldn’t say pleasant yet!). Our five filthy bodies were then cleansed by the freedive and in seemingly no time we were all at the second chamber just before the SMMC Upstream Sump. I wouldn’t say this place is getting boring, I still walk along it in wonder each time, but the repetition of coming here every week is certainly making it feel more homely. The few boulder ruckles that you need to pass are now memorable manoeuvres rather than tricky obstacles.
Chris Hibberts in the Upstream SMMC, by JonP
Whilst the others carried on to photograph the passage between Upstream Sumps 1 and 2, me and Dylan made a base camp to begin our evenings objective, to bolt climb up into an alluring rift passage up in the roof. A quick lesson to Dylan about which way to hold a Stop and I set off, already apologising to him in advanced that my bolt climb is full of frustrating faff and that I might be a while. Thankfully the rock was kind and the perched boulders mostly stayed perched, and I got to the lip of the passage in only 3 bolts. Ahead looked pretty good so I stuck in a Y-hang (safety first of course) and let Dylan come up and join me, stripping the gear on the way.
His excitement was higher than mine as we walked along a ~4m high rift passage, probably because it’s one of his first tastes of original exploration, but also because to me it just felt like yet another trip in Intake Dale Mine. The rift about 1m wide, the walls very clean, the floor and roof in places pretty loose and scary. The main difference, which I checked hard after this realisation, was this was not man-made at all. After 20m or so the rift got narrower and more full of loose slabs, so I stripped off my SRT kit and navigated a tight route through. It ended in a small muddy tube which I though had quite a good draught coming out, but in hindsight I think this was a circular draught from my body heat (which was quite surprising as we were both pretty cold by this point). The way on is blocked by a small flake which will be easily removed with a hammer and the echo ahead suggests it gets bigger, so we’ll have to return.
We turned around and abseiled down our evening’s accomplishment, perfectly timed as the others just arrived back. They had had a poke in the choke just before the Upstream Sump 2 and found a few new voids but unfortunately no significant way on. Still hard evidence of miners alludes us but there’s soft evidence all over this choke.
We all then started the long trip out, feeling much longer now as our bodies get cold and tired, although Joe still had plenty enough energy to be climbing up in the roof in places to look for new ways on. We made the starlit surface in dribs and drabs, welcomed warmly by post-beer avec pork scratching and bacon razzles! If we’re going to have to get used to not making last orders, this is on point.
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- Written by: Rob Eavis
- Hits: 1403
Team: Ben Marks, Rob Eavis, Joe Buck, Sam Pemberton, Chris Hibberts
The trip I had on Thursday night was one of the most incredible experiences I have ever had underground, and the SMMC streamway is quite a sight to behold. The trip was definitely not easy by any stretch of the mile, but I feel incredibly privileged to have been the first under-18 caver to have made it through the sump into a place only seen by a small handful of people.
Before the trip
A chance occurrence in the TSG the weekend before the trip would see me come eye to eye with that bloke I recognized off of of the front cover of “Caves of the Peak District”, and I ceased the moment to ask for a trip into Cussey at some point. However, the reality of what I had signed myself up to suddenly hit home when I received a text a few days later with a time and date. The plainly worded “meet for pre beers at 18:30 at this carpark” was accompanied by a dropped pin for the car park in Eyam village, and with that I set to planning how I was going to prepare myself for one of the hardest trips I have ever agreed to. The priority for me was getting enough sleep, so I was into bed by 2130 each night of the week leading up to the trip, and I skipped out on the gym to avoid any aches!
Thursday came quickly, and all I could see in my mind was the rather grim looking free dive which I had seen from Rob’s video on the internet. I really planned out my food, ensuring that I ate a reasonable amount of time before the trip and that I had something sugary before dropping into the cave…
The trip
I finally trundled into the carpark at about 18:15 and got kitted up. To say I was apprehensive would be putting it very mildly. Soon enough Rob, Chris, Sam and Joe (in his new shiny van) joined us in the carpark and cracked open some pre beers. The others quickly donned their wetsuits whilst I started putting on as many layers as I could underneath my undersuit in an attempt to keep warm through the trip. So far, nobody had completed the trip without a wetsuit, but I don’t tend to get too cold underground so I seemed the ideal candidate to give it a go in normal caving attire. The walk in took little more than 10 seconds, and with the turn of a nut the steel lid was wide open. The draught coming out of Cussey is absolutely astonishing: the branches above the lid are swayed by it! It is, however, a mostly artificial draught originating from the fans in the nearby fluorspar mine.
I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect, but I certainly didn’t expect Cussey Pot to be how it was. A fairly roomy entrance pitch is first dropped, and then a traverse across a rift takes you to the first constriction – Coconut Airways. This stempled freeclimb is fairly tight and takes some energy to downclimb safely. Coming back out is a whole different story however! From here on, the cave becomes of a slightly larger nature for a short period before closing right down to a vertical squeeze. With Chris and I being of a larger build than the Cussey regulars, there was some speculation as to whether we would fit through the squeeze – should we have not been able to slip our way through, the trip would have been cut short immediately and the delights of the Stoney Middleton Master Cave would have been only distant aspirations – But both of us slid through with some wiggling and help from gravity. From here, another pitch drops into an excellently decorated passage. It certainly isn’t reminiscent of the Stoney Middleton that I know of. A short distance on, we met the pitch into ‘Inglorious Bastards’, a large chamber, and the start of the long slog towards the sump we were soon to be having a splash in. This chamber is fantastic, and worthy of a visit in its own right. Cussey reminded me much of St Cuthberts Swallet on Mendip – The tight entrance series followed by some impressively sized spaces and pretties along the way.
After taking off our SRT kits in ‘Inglorious Bastards’, we headed down into the first crawl. ‘Loperamide Lust’ (a snug flat-out crawl) leads off from the main chamber initially at a fairly steep downward angle, before flattening out and getting even more snug! This was a real pain, and definitely the worst crawl of the trip. The resistance of moving forwards was really high due to the dry, sticky nature of the mud, and progress was initially quite slow. I found it easier to take my helmet off and push it in front of me for the tighter parts. Eventually we popped out into ‘Doom’ where a nice amount of larger sized passage was travelled before we reached the next crawl, ‘Vulgarious Bastard’. This crawl was very reminiscent of ‘Colostomy Crawl’ in Peak Cavern, if a little more snug. The thick, gloopy mud made forwards progress much easier, acting as a lubricant and allowing us to glide along through the crawl at a good speed. There was one duck which was rather unpleasant, but other than that it was more than do-able. Before I knew it, I was standing next to the final hurdle of the trip – The ‘Boil Up Sump 2’ , and Joe was boasting about how clean he had kept his face. I was absolutely covered in the stuff, and quite looking forward to cleaning off in the sump. I was relieved at just how straight forward the trip had been to this point, which put me in a good mindset to have a crack at this free dive.
Rob quickly briefed me in the dos and don’ts of this rather intimidating free dive and dealt with my nervous questioning with some appropriate blunt answers! With some thrashing around in the water and gurgling, he had disappeared through to the other side and sure enough, the dive line was tugged three times to indicate it was safe for the next diver. Soon my turn came, and I got into the sump pool and started making myself comfortable. The temperature of the water made it hard for me to get a decent breath as I was hyperventilating a bit, so I allowed myself some time to calm down. I dunked my head under for a test run and emerged briefly after realizing just how grim it was. I knew if I didn’t go for it with the next dunk of my head, I wouldn’t be getting into the master cave and all of this prep would have been for nothing. I took a deep breath, and pulled like mad on the dive line. Before I knew it, I was out on the other side to a very elated looking Rob. I’m not sure who was more excited out of the two of us!
The others came through with Joe last, staying under water right until the end of the sump pool just to show off. Exuberant with the adrenaline of the dive, the team stomped off into the great passage of the Stoney Middleton Master Cave ahead. It’s hard to describe the scale of this place. Not only in the actual passage height, but also it’s length. It really is one of the best streamways I have ever visited. The walls are littered with deep scalloping and the colouring of the rock is very interesting. Numerous inlets and avens stand unexplored, giving some fantastic potential for more cave to be found. With every turn, boulder choke and narrowing of the passage comes a distinctively different character. It is most like Peak Cavern in places, but it takes on a Yorkshire feel at times too. We reached a constriction at the end of the streamway and the team quickly flicked to exploration mode. Joe was soon to get squirming into some of the potential leads, grunting to hear for any hollow voids beyond the choked passage. In this area we found some good chunks of galena – the miners can’t have been far off here at one point. The choke was passed down to a lower section of passage with a silted floor. This was very reminiscent of Speedwell. A sump was reached at the end, with no obvious dry bypass.
The trip soon turned around, taking in the sights of the streamway at a leisurely pace on the way back. It really is a special feeling to be ambling through a passage this good, especially when there’s been less than ten people here before you. Soon we were back at the sump, and I was feeling pretty happy with the return dive. I think complacency kicked in here, and I didn’t get enough of a deep breath. I was needing air halfway through the dive whilst my helmet was scraping the rock above my head. The only thing I could do was pull the dive line harder and get to the air space! Although totally do-able with enough layers and a furry undersuit, a wetsuit would have the distinct advantage of reducing the initial cold-water shock and ensuring you can get a good deep breath. Everyone was back through the sump with no real trouble, and the team could start the long slog back to surface.
‘Vulgarious’ was fine on the way back out, and progress was fairly quick. However, ‘Loperamide Lust’ was a real slog for me, and it took a considerable amount of time to get back to ‘Inglorious Bastards’. Eventually I popped out into the big chamber and managed to find the Cheese String I had stashed with my SRT kit for the final slog. However on holding the packet in my mud caked hands, I thought I’d manage without it’s plasticy goodness until I was on surface and clean. The prussik out was extremely tiring, not to mention the squeeze going against gravity. However, the worst part was definitely climbing out of ‘Coconut Airways’. That is a real challenge when tired! However, all were soon on surface and back to the carpark, cracking jokes and sharing stories of the trip we just had. We all cleaned off and exchanged our thankyou’s before heading off at about 00:00. I feel really lucky to have been able to do this trip aged 17 – It’s not something you get to do every week (unless you’re the Eldon!). Hopefully this paves the way for more to come and enjoy the delights of Cussey and the SMMC. If I can do it, then it’s not that bad!
Massive thanks to Rob, Joe and the rest of the team for the reassurance and helpful leg-ups where needed. Hopefully I can come down again sometime and do some more exploring…
Ben Marks